Disassembly - Belt I'm not aware of a design for a knee 3D hotend that has been made to fit it yet. Firmware modifications Over tightening also risks snapping the T slot.Remove the 3 screws holding the cover to the connector breakout boardRemove the 2 screws holding the breakout board in placePull the fan and thermistor cables out of the sleeveCompress the cabling sleeve by pushing both ends towards each other in order to widen the sleeveInsert the Stepper motor cable, the hotend fan cable and the thermistor cable through the sleeveConnect the fan cable in the FAN slot with the polarity as shownConnect the thermistor cable in the TH1 slot (polarity does not matter)Connect the stepper motor cable in the E0 slot with the polarity as shownSecure the breakout board as was initially with the two screwsRemove the screw holding the stepper motor idler in placeRemove the rest of the screws holding the stepper motor in placeOnce the stepper motor is removed, re-attach the part with the pneumatic coupler in place using the same screws and x2 M3 locknutsSecure the wiring along with the sleeve on the Hermes mount with a couple of zip-tiesMove the hermes all the way to the opposite end of the breakout board and stretch the sleeve along the wires to make sure you have enough slackSecure the other end of the sleeve with a couple of zip-ties on the gantry mount next to the breakout boardPut the breakout board cover back using the same three screwsCarefully collect all the extra cabling and roll it neatly making sure nothing unplugs from the breakout boardRe-insert both ends of the X-axis belt into their slots on the carriageLocate the idler and isert the bearing part into the belt at the end of the X-axis railPull the idler in order to create tension on the beltSecure the idler into the x-axis rail with the screws and T-nutsInsert the original Capricorn PTFE tube into the coupler where the original extruder wasInsert the printed part cooling fan duct into the blowerThe ridges on the fan duct will align with the blower fan. Assembly - PTFE
Don't work on your printer while it is plugged in or turned on. Is that nozzle a fairly straight forward upgrade that is fully compatible with my printer (CR-10S Pro)? Disassembly - Wiring Flag. Prepare wires for splicing 3D Printer Build Surfaces. Disassembly - Wiring Cable management Creality’s Official Bondtech Double Gear extruder kit should make your filament jamming days a distant memory. Hello everyone! fredde94chr - in reply to Spodesta . Is that nozzle a fairly straight forward upgrade that is fully compatible with my printer (CR-10S Pro)? Use the end with the large connector.Strip 2 cm from the ends of the yellow and purple wires that were connected to the original heat sink fan.Cut two pieces of 3 cm long heat shrink tubing and slide them onto the yellow and purple wires.Twist the yellow and purple wires to the red and black wires from a connector you prepared in the last step.Slide the heat shrink tubing down over the connections and use a heat gun to shrink it.Repeat the process for the last step by soldering the other connector to the two white wires for the thermistor.The thermistor wires are nonpolarized, which means it does not matter which wire you connect to which.The heater cartridge does not have a connector.
I'm thinking I can just upgrade to an all metal hot end like the E3D V6.
It assembled easily and printed fairly well right away. Also ensure that the end is cut square.If your bowden tube is worn, then you may consider replacing it with the new tube provided in your E3D kit.Insert the tube into the new hot end.
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